BOOK YOUR 2026 – 2027 EXPEDITION
BOOK YOUR 2026 – 2027 EXPEDITION
BOOK YOUR 2026 – 2027 EXPEDITION
The granite spire named after one of mountaineering's greatest pioneers rises from the Upper Trango Glacier, its 4,400-foot walls offering some of the finest technical rock climbing in the entire Karakoram. Just two hours from the legendary Trango Towers, Shipton Spire presents a 29-pitch big wall with difficulties up to 7b+ on superb granite—nearly twice as much vertical rock as the nearby Nameless Tower. Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites elite big wall climbers to join our Shipton Spire expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with fixed departures scheduled from June through September—the optimal weather window when conditions are most stable for extended wall climbs at altitude . Our 44-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support.
Difficulty
Technical
Max Altitude
5910 meters
Peak
Shipton Spire (Hainablak Central Tower) – 5,910m / 19,390ft
Location
Upper Trango Glacier, Baltoro Region, Karakoram Range, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
First Ascent
1997 by Björnstadt and Albert via "Ship of Fools" route
Duration
44 days (including contingencies and trek in/out)
Best Season
Summer: June to September; We operate in all seasons (Summer, Winter, Spring, Autumn)
Shipton Spire rises to 5,910 meters as one of the most dramatic granite towers in the Karakoram Range, standing just a two-hour walk from the legendary Trango Towers on the Upper Trango Glacier . Named after renowned British mountaineer and Himalayan pioneer Eric Shipton, this elusive spire sits three miles across the Trango Glacier at the confluence of the North and South Hainablak Glaciers . Rising out of the massive glacial junction, its walls appear both stunning and fierce, attracting elite climbers from around the world who seek some of the finest high-altitude big wall rock climbing on Earth .
The area surrounding Shipton Spire includes several unclimbed and rarely attempted objectives that form the Hainablak group. Hainablak East Tower and the formation known as the "Cat's Ears" sit enticingly across the glacier, both currently unclimbed and presenting excellent lines in steep granite . These formations, like Shipton itself, rise just under 6,000 meters and offer tremendous potential for future expeditions. The entire region represents some of the most concentrated technical rock climbing challenges in the greater ranges, with granite quality that rivals the finest climbing destinations globally.
What makes Shipton Spire particularly compelling is the sheer scale of technical rock climbing available. The main route presents a 29-pitch, 4,400-foot big wall with pitches rated 6c, 7b, and 7b+, offering arguably the best technical climbing one can expect on a Karakoram granite tower . While the climbing is undeniably hard, the rock quality is superb, making every pitch rewarding despite the extreme difficulty. With over 4,300 feet of vertical granite rising almost directly from the glacier, it offers nearly twice as much technical rock as the nearby Nameless Tower .
The first ascent of the peak came in 1997 via the "Ship of Fools" route by Björnstadt and Albert, establishing Shipton as a premier big wall objective . Since then, numerous significant routes have been established, including "Inshallah" (Davis-Harvey-Shaw, 1998), "Women and Chalk" (Bole-Cortese-Dandri, 2001), and the Slovak routes during their highly productive 2004 expedition .
Alpine Karakoram Adventure operates Shipton Spire expeditions during the summer climbing season from June to September. Our team provides comprehensive logistics from Islamabad through the classic Baltoro approach, full Base Camp support throughout the extended climbing period, and the return journey to the capital. The expedition runs approximately 44 days, combining world-class big wall climbing with travel through spectacular mountain landscapes. From Base Camp, climbers enjoy breathtaking views of surrounding giants including K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, and the entire Trango group rising across the glacier.
What makes this expedition special
Climb Shipton Spire at 5,910 meters featuring 4,400 feet of world-class granite, nearly twice the vertical rock of nearby Nameless Tower
Tackle the 29-pitch main route with technical pitches rated 6c, 7b, and 7b+, offering arguably the best technical climbing on Karakoram granite
Experience some of the finest big wall climbing at altitude anywhere on Earth, with superb rock quality throughout
Named after legendary British mountaineer and explorer Eric Shipton, pioneer of lightweight Himalayan exploration
Located just two hours from the famous Trango Towers on Upper Trango Glacier, in the heart of the Karakoram's most dramatic granite architecture
Surrounded by unclimbed objectives including Hainablak East Tower and the "Cat's Ears" formation, offering tremendous potential for future routes
Breathtaking views of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum peaks, and the entire Trango group from Base Camp and the climbing route
Base Camp at 4,700 meters on a beautiful grass meadow at the confluence of Hainablak Glaciers, with stunning mountain panorama
Follow in the footsteps of legendary climbers including the 2004 Slovak expedition that established multiple routes and made significant ascents
Full Base Camp support with dining tent, bathroom, showers, and solar charging for extended wall climbing campaigns
Trek the legendary Baltoro Glacier through spectacular mountain scenery on one of the most famous approaches in the world
Opportunities for both established routes and potential for new lines on unclimbed formations throughout the Hainablak group
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport. Our team meets you at arrivals and transfers you to the hotel. Official expedition briefing covering logistics, requirements, and what to expect on this demanding...
Morning flight to Skardu if weather permits. The spectacular 45-minute flight offers views of Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram Range. If weather prevents flying, drive from Islamabad to Chilas on...
If you flew to Skardu on Day 2, this is a free day for rest and preparation. If road travel to Chilas was necessary on Day 2, complete the drive...
Morning briefing at the Ministry of Tourism office, completing official documentation. Afternoon final preparation with staff; meet your porters, cook, and expedition team. Organize equipment and supplies. Last chance for...
Drive by jeep to Askole, approximately 8 to 9 hours on mountain roads . Askole is the last village of approximately 50 houses where villagers grow their own cereals, vegetables,...
Begin trekking below the Biafo Glacier, a massive ocean of moving boulders and crevasses two kilometers wide. Walk 2 to 3 hours then continue to Jhola for a total of...
Start on a relatively easy trail for 3 to 4 hours, crossing Bardumal campsites along a two-kilometer stretch of sandy river beach. After a lunch break, continue toward Paiju camp...
Rest and acclimatization day at Paiju. Prepare equipment for glacier crossing. Final opportunity to enjoy green surroundings before entering the ice world of the Baltoro Glacier. Short hikes for acclimatization.
Trek from Paiju onto the Baltoro Glacier and continue to Khuburtse. First day of glacier travel on moraine-covered ice. The glacier is a chaotic landscape of rock on ancient ice....
Continue up the Baltoro Glacier from Khuburtse to Urdukas. Pass beneath the massive Trango Towers and the isolated pillar of Nameless Tower. Urdukas offers spectacular views of Trango Towers and...
Trek from Urdukas to Goro II. Follow the moraine edge onto the broad back of the main Baltoro Glacier. Views expand to include Masherbrum and Gasherbrum IV. Camp on the...
Trek 5 to 6 hours on slightly easier terrain with spectacular views and a gigantic mountain panorama including Gasherbrum IV and Mitre Peak. Cross onto the Upper Trango Glacier and...
Well-earned rest day at the spectacular Shipton Spire Base Camp. Technical training on big wall systems, portaledge setup, hauling techniques, and aid climbing skills. Local staff perform a Puja Ceremony—a...
Twenty-five days allocated for acclimatization and climbing Shipton Spire. This extended period reflects the serious nature of big wall climbing at altitude on one of the most challenging granite towers...
Climbing period concludes. Pack all gear and clean Base Camp thoroughly, leaving no trace. Trek back across glaciers toward Paiju. Return to the green oasis after weeks on ice and...
Continue the descent from Paiju toward Jhola, retracing the approach route. Afternoon free for leisure after completing the trek.
Trek from Jhola back to Askole village. Return to civilization and human settlement. Celebrate the completion of the expedition with the porter team and express appreciation for their hard work.
Drive by jeep from Askole back to Skardu. The journey takes a full day on mountain roads through the dramatic Braldu Gorge and Shigar Valley. Arrive in Skardu by evening...
Morning flight from Skardu to Islamabad if weather permits. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel. If weather prevents flying, drive from Skardu to Chilas, approximately 8 to 9 hours. Overnight...
If road travel to Chilas was necessary on Day 43, complete the drive from Chilas to Islamabad, approximately 10 to 12 hours. If the flight operated on Day 43, enjoy...
After breakfast, transfer to Islamabad International Airport for international departure. The Shipton Spire expedition concludes.
Note: This itinerary represents our standard plan based on experience organizing expeditions in the Baltoro region. The technical big wall nature of Shipton Spire demands maximum flexibility. Weather, rock conditions, and the extreme difficulty of routes mean actual climbing duration varies significantly. The 2004 Slovak expedition experienced only nine good weather days during their five-week stay, yet still achieved multiple significant ascents . Your expedition operates independently on the technical climbing while we provide comprehensive Base Camp support. All peaks in the Hainablak group lie within open zone requiring appropriate permits .
14 items included
15 items not included
We understand that every climber has unique needs and different experience levels. The inclusions above represent our standard expedition package. We cater to both guided expeditions and non-guided alpine-style climbing teams, with flexible service levels from Base Camp support to full-board packages. Additional high-altitude support can be arranged at extra cost, including a personal Pakistani High Altitude Porter (HAP) who will transport up to 20 kg of personal gear between camps . Our service tiers include: **Silver Service**: Standard Base Camp support with essential infrastructure **Gold Service**: Enhanced Base Camp facilities and additional staff support **Platinum Service**: Premium Base Camp setup with maximum comfort and dedicated services
Authentic reviews from fellow trekkers who completed this expedition
Based on 0 reviews
Be the first to review this expedition!
Discover more incredible adventures in the Karakoram

The granite spires of Uli Biaho rise from the Baltoro Glacier like frozen lightning, their sheer walls creating one of the most captivating formations in the entire Karakoram. Situated directly beside the legendary Trango Towers, this twin-summit massif offers elite climbers a choice between two distinct objectives: the higher Uli Biaho Peak (6,417m) with its mixed terrain and unclimbed history until 2006, or the technical Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m) with its vertical granite walls and established big wall routes . Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites experienced climbers to join our Uli Biaho expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with fixed departures scheduled from May through August—the optimal weather window when conditions are most stable for technical climbing at altitude . Our 30-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support. Slots are strictly limited for this remote and technical objective. Contact us to secure your place on one of the Karakoram's most magnificent granite formations.

The window to climb in the Karakoram is brief, and the mountains do not wait. Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites experienced alpinists to join our Trango Towers expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with departures scheduled from July through August—the optimal weather window when the Karakoram offers its most stable conditions . The Trango Towers, rising magnificently north of the Baltoro Glacier, form one of the most spectacular collections of granite spires on Earth, featuring some of the world's largest cliffs and most challenging big wall climbing opportunities . Our 38-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support. Slots are strictly limited each season. Contact us to secure your place on these legendary granite giants.

The granite monolith known as The Ogre rises from the heart of the Panmah Muztagh like a fortress from another world—a jagged, vertical thumb of rock that has repelled more than twenty expeditions for every one that has succeeded. Baintha Brakk I, standing at 7,285 meters, is universally regarded as one of the most formidable and technically demanding peaks in the entire Karakoram, a mountain where the margin for error does not exist and where the climbing history reads like a chronicle of survival against impossible odds . Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites elite alpinists to join our Baintha Brakk expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with fixed departures scheduled from July through early September—the brief weather window when conditions are most stable for attempting this beast of the Karakoram . Our 39-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support. Slots are strictly limited for this exclusive objective. Contact us to secure your place on one of the hardest mountains on earth.
Starting from
Contact for Price