Featured Expedition
SHIPTON SPIRE EXPEDITION (5,910m)
BOOK YOUR 2026 – 2027 EXPEDITION
Featured Expedition
SHIPTON SPIRE EXPEDITION (5,910m)
BOOK YOUR 2026 – 2027 EXPEDITION
BOOK YOUR 2026 – 2027 EXPEDITION
The granite spire named after one of mountaineering's greatest pioneers rises from the Upper Trango Glacier, its 4,400-foot walls offering some of the finest technical rock climbing in the entire Karakoram. Just two hours from the legendary Trango Towers, Shipton Spire presents a 29-pitch big wall with difficulties up to 7b+ on superb granite—nearly twice as much vertical rock as the nearby Nameless Tower. Alpine Karakoram Adventure invites elite big wall climbers to join our Shipton Spire expeditions for the 2026 and 2027 seasons, with fixed departures scheduled from June through September—the optimal weather window when conditions are most stable for extended wall climbs at altitude . Our 44-day expedition covers every detail from your arrival in Islamabad to your safe return, including all permits, logistics, Base Camp infrastructure, and professional support.
Trip Stats
Rock ClimbingGilgit Baltistan
Difficulty
Technical
EasyModerateHardExtreme
Max Altitude
5910 meters
Peak
Shipton Spire (Hainablak Central Tower) – 5,910m / 19,390ft
Location
Upper Trango Glacier, Baltoro Region, Karakoram Range, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
First Ascent
1997 by Björnstadt and Albert via "Ship of Fools" route
Duration
44 days (including contingencies and trek in/out)
Best Season
Summer: June to September; We operate in all seasons (Summer, Winter, Spring, Autumn)
Overview
Shipton Spire rises to 5,910 meters as one of the most dramatic granite towers in the Karakoram Range, standing just a two-hour walk from the legendary Trango Towers on the Upper Trango Glacier . Named after renowned British mountaineer and Himalayan pioneer Eric Shipton, this elusive spire sits three miles across the Trango Glacier at the confluence of the North and South Hainablak Glaciers . Rising out of the massive glacial junction, its walls appear both stunning and fierce, attracting elite climbers from around the world who seek some of the finest high-altitude big wall rock climbing on Earth .
The area surrounding Shipton Spire includes several unclimbed and rarely attempted objectives that form the Hainablak group. Hainablak East Tower and the formation known as the "Cat's Ears" sit enticingly across the glacier, both currently unclimbed and presenting excellent lines in steep granite . These formations, like Shipton itself, rise just under 6,000 meters and offer tremendous potential for future expeditions. The entire region represents some of the most concentrated technical rock climbing challenges in the greater ranges, with granite quality that rivals the finest climbing destinations globally.
What makes Shipton Spire particularly compelling is the sheer scale of technical rock climbing available. The main route presents a 29-pitch, 4,400-foot big wall with pitches rated 6c, 7b, and 7b+, offering arguably the best technical climbing one can expect on a Karakoram granite tower . While the climbing is undeniably hard, the rock quality is superb, making every pitch rewarding despite the extreme difficulty. With over 4,300 feet of vertical granite rising almost directly from the glacier, it offers nearly twice as much technical rock as the nearby Nameless Tower .
The first ascent of the peak came in 1997 via the "Ship of Fools" route by Björnstadt and Albert, establishing Shipton as a premier big wall objective . Since then, numerous significant routes have been established, including "Inshallah" (Davis-Harvey-Shaw, 1998), "Women and Chalk" (Bole-Cortese-Dandri, 2001), and the Slovak routes during their highly productive 2004 expedition .
Alpine Karakoram Adventure operates Shipton Spire expeditions during the summer climbing season from June to September. Our team provides comprehensive logistics from Islamabad through the classic Baltoro approach, full Base Camp support throughout the extended climbing period, and the return journey to the capital. The expedition runs approximately 44 days, combining world-class big wall climbing with travel through spectacular mountain landscapes. From Base Camp, climbers enjoy breathtaking views of surrounding giants including K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, and the entire Trango group rising across the glacier.
Trip Highlights
What makes this expedition special
Climb Shipton Spire at 5,910 meters featuring 4,400 feet of world-class granite, nearly twice the vertical rock of nearby Nameless Tower
1
Tackle the 29-pitch main route with technical pitches rated 6c, 7b, and 7b+, offering arguably the best technical climbing on Karakoram granite
2
Experience some of the finest big wall climbing at altitude anywhere on Earth, with superb rock quality throughout
3
Named after legendary British mountaineer and explorer Eric Shipton, pioneer of lightweight Himalayan exploration
4
Located just two hours from the famous Trango Towers on Upper Trango Glacier, in the heart of the Karakoram's most dramatic granite architecture
5
Surrounded by unclimbed objectives including Hainablak East Tower and the "Cat's Ears" formation, offering tremendous potential for future routes
6
Breathtaking views of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum peaks, and the entire Trango group from Base Camp and the climbing route
7
Base Camp at 4,700 meters on a beautiful grass meadow at the confluence of Hainablak Glaciers, with stunning mountain panorama
8
Follow in the footsteps of legendary climbers including the 2004 Slovak expedition that established multiple routes and made significant ascents
9
Full Base Camp support with dining tent, bathroom, showers, and solar charging for extended wall climbing campaigns
10
Trek the legendary Baltoro Glacier through spectacular mountain scenery on one of the most famous approaches in the world
11
Opportunities for both established routes and potential for new lines on unclimbed formations throughout the Hainablak group
12
Day by Day Itinerary
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport. Our team meets you at arrivals and transfers you to the hotel. Official expedition briefing covering logistics, requirements, and what to expect on this demanding...
540 meters
Welcome Dinner
Hotel in Islamabad
Morning flight to Skardu if weather permits. The spectacular 45-minute flight offers views of Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram Range. If weather prevents flying, drive from Islamabad to Chilas on...
2,228 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Hotel in Skardu or Chilas
If you flew to Skardu on Day 2, this is a free day for rest and preparation. If road travel to Chilas was necessary on Day 2, complete the drive...
2,228 meters
Breakfast, Dinner
Hotel in Skardu
Morning briefing at the Ministry of Tourism office, completing official documentation. Afternoon final preparation with staff; meet your porters, cook, and expedition team. Organize equipment and supplies. Last chance for...
2,228 meters
Breakfast, Dinner
Hotel in Skardu
Drive by jeep to Askole, approximately 8 to 9 hours on mountain roads . Askole is the last village of approximately 50 houses where villagers grow their own cereals, vegetables,...
3,050 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Askole
Begin trekking below the Biafo Glacier, a massive ocean of moving boulders and crevasses two kilometers wide. Walk 2 to 3 hours then continue to Jhola for a total of...
3,200 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Jhola
Start on a relatively easy trail for 3 to 4 hours, crossing Bardumal campsites along a two-kilometer stretch of sandy river beach. After a lunch break, continue toward Paiju camp...
3,480 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Paiju
Rest and acclimatization day at Paiju. Prepare equipment for glacier crossing. Final opportunity to enjoy green surroundings before entering the ice world of the Baltoro Glacier. Short hikes for acclimatization.
3,480 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Paiju
Trek from Paiju onto the Baltoro Glacier and continue to Khuburtse. First day of glacier travel on moraine-covered ice. The glacier is a chaotic landscape of rock on ancient ice....
3,800 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Khuburtse
Continue up the Baltoro Glacier from Khuburtse to Urdukas. Pass beneath the massive Trango Towers and the isolated pillar of Nameless Tower. Urdukas offers spectacular views of Trango Towers and...
4,130 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Urdukas
Trek from Urdukas to Goro II. Follow the moraine edge onto the broad back of the main Baltoro Glacier. Views expand to include Masherbrum and Gasherbrum IV. Camp on the...
4,300 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Goro II
Trek 5 to 6 hours on slightly easier terrain with spectacular views and a gigantic mountain panorama including Gasherbrum IV and Mitre Peak. Cross onto the Upper Trango Glacier and...
4,700 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Shipton Spire Base Camp
Well-earned rest day at the spectacular Shipton Spire Base Camp. Technical training on big wall systems, portaledge setup, hauling techniques, and aid climbing skills. Local staff perform a Puja Ceremony—a...
4,700 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Shipton Spire Base Camp
Twenty-five days allocated for acclimatization and climbing Shipton Spire. This extended period reflects the serious nature of big wall climbing at altitude on one of the most challenging granite towers...
5,910 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Shipton Spire Base Camp / Portaledges
Climbing period concludes. Pack all gear and clean Base Camp thoroughly, leaving no trace. Trek back across glaciers toward Paiju. Return to the green oasis after weeks on ice and...
3,480 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Paiju
Continue the descent from Paiju toward Jhola, retracing the approach route. Afternoon free for leisure after completing the trek.
3,200 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Jhola
Trek from Jhola back to Askole village. Return to civilization and human settlement. Celebrate the completion of the expedition with the porter team and express appreciation for their hard work.
3,050 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full service camping at Askole
Drive by jeep from Askole back to Skardu. The journey takes a full day on mountain roads through the dramatic Braldu Gorge and Shigar Valley. Arrive in Skardu by evening...
2,228 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Hotel in Skardu
Morning flight from Skardu to Islamabad if weather permits. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel. If weather prevents flying, drive from Skardu to Chilas, approximately 8 to 9 hours. Overnight...
540 meters
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Hotel in Islamabad or Chilas
If road travel to Chilas was necessary on Day 43, complete the drive from Chilas to Islamabad, approximately 10 to 12 hours. If the flight operated on Day 43, enjoy...
540 meters
Breakfast, Farewell Dinner
Hotel in Islamabad
After breakfast, transfer to Islamabad International Airport for international departure. The Shipton Spire expedition concludes.
540 meters
Breakfast
None
Note: This itinerary represents our standard plan based on experience organizing expeditions in the Baltoro region. The technical big wall nature of Shipton Spire demands maximum flexibility. Weather, rock conditions, and the extreme difficulty of routes mean actual climbing duration varies significantly. The 2004 Slovak expedition experienced only nine good weather days during their five-week stay, yet still achieved multiple significant ascents . Your expedition operates independently on the technical climbing while we provide comprehensive Base Camp support. All peaks in the Hainablak group lie within open zone requiring appropriate permits .
What's Included
Included
14 items included
- Professional airport pickup and drop-off at Islamabad International Airport
- All accommodation (hotels in Islamabad/Skardu, full service camping during trek)
- All meals from arrival day lunch through departure day breakfast
- Domestic flights Islamabad-Skardu-Islamabad (subject to weather; road contingency if cancelled)
- Jeep transportation between Skardu and Askole in both directions
- Full processing of Pakistan expedition permits and government documentation
- CKNP waste management fee and all camping fees
- Complete Base Camp infrastructure with member tents, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, tables, chairs
- Full Base Camp with dining tent, bathroom facilities, showers, and solar charging with generator backup
- Porterage of 75kg per climbing member to Base Camp and 50kg per member on return
- All trekking and Base Camp food prepared by experienced Pakistani cook
- Staff insurance covering guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistants, and porters
- Group emergency equipment and satellite phone service (fixed calling charges apply)
- Assistance for reconfirmation of international flight tickets
Not Included
15 items not included
- International airfare to and from Pakistan
- Pakistan mountaineering visa fee
- Mandatory travel and high-altitude rescue insurance (must cover helicopter evacuation)
- Personal climbing equipment, technical hardware, clothing, and sleeping gear
- Group climbing gear including ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, gas canisters, cooking pots
- Portaledges, wall camping equipment, big wall hauling gear, and aid climbing hardware
- High-altitude porters (HAPs) and any services above Base Camp
- Personal expenses: phone calls, internet, laundry, beverages
- Tips and gratuities for staff, cook, and porters (customary, amount at your discretion)
- Communication radio (walkie-talkie) and weather reports
- Personal equipment cargo to and from Islamabad
- Extra hotel nights after the climb
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Charges due to delays beyond control (force majeure)
- Expenses incurred in event of early conclusion or extended summit attempt
We understand that every climber has unique needs and different experience levels. The inclusions above represent our standard expedition package. We cater to both guided expeditions and non-guided alpine-style climbing teams, with flexible service levels from Base Camp support to full-board packages. Additional high-altitude support can be arranged at extra cost, including a personal Pakistani High Altitude Porter (HAP) who will transport up to 20 kg of personal gear between camps . Our service tiers include: **Silver Service**: Standard Base Camp support with essential infrastructure **Gold Service**: Enhanced Base Camp facilities and additional staff support **Platinum Service**: Premium Base Camp setup with maximum comfort and dedicated services
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